15+ yearshelping Perth locals get competitive auto finance
Long enough to know which lender on the panel likes which file, which is the whole job. Every broker who will read your application is in the one office in Victoria Park.

Need an SUV for the family, a first hatchback, or a couple of work utes for the business? Yes Loans is a car finance broker, not a bank. One application reaches Angle Finance, Latitude, Sovereign Credit, Pepper Money, Money3 and Allied Credit, so you are not stuck with whatever one desk offers.
Need an SUV for the family, a first hatchback, or a couple of work utes for the business? Owning a car in Perth is close to essential. Paying for one outright is another matter entirely, and that's usually where a car loan comes in. What changes the outcome is less the car than where the money comes from, and when you arrange it.
Long enough to know which lender on the panel likes which file, which is the whole job. Every broker who will read your application is in the one office in Victoria Park.
Angle Finance, Latitude, Sovereign Credit, Pepper Money, Money3 and Allied Credit. We would rather name the panel than count it, because a name can be checked and a number cannot.
Applying takes less than 10 minutes. Fill out the form to get started, or run the numbers through the estimator further down first. Getting your rate does not touch your credit score.
A dealership's business manager is paid on the finance. A broker is paid by whichever lender settles the loan, which is a different incentive and the reason the answer is sometimes a lender you have never heard of. Meet our team before you meet a business manager.
The same car, the same buyer and the same week can produce four quite different loans depending on who is lending. Every yard in Perth will offer to arrange the money for you. Here is what each of the four options is actually offering, including the two that are not us.

The most common way a car gets financed in Perth, because it is offered at the exact moment you have decided you want the car and would like the conversation to be over. It is convenient, and it is a sale.
None of the four is wrong in every case, which is the honest version of this section. What is wrong is deciding at the desk, with the car agreed and the keys in sight. Arrange the number first and every one of these becomes a comparison rather than a commitment.
Put in the drive-away price, what you are putting down, and the rate you want to test. Then move the balloon slider and watch the weekly figure fall while the total rises. That is the trick a finance desk performs without showing you the second number.
A trade-in counts as a deposit only for what is left after any loan on it is paid out. If the old car owes more than it is worth, the difference goes the other way.
A lump sum left owing at the end of the term. It lowers every repayment and is charged interest for the whole term, so the total goes up. Useful if you change cars every few years and will trade against it. A trap if nobody mentioned it.
Lenders read the car's age at the end of the term, not the start, so an older car usually means a shorter maximum. A term that ends while the car is still worth something is the one to aim for.
We are a broker, so we do not set this. Lenders do, per file, and a secured car loan sits lower on this slider than an unsecured loan would because the car stands behind it. If a dealer has quoted you a rate, put it here and compare the total against the one your broker comes back with.
A secured loan on a newer car with a clean file is the sharpest money a lender writes. Test the bottom of the slider, and do not accept a dealer's number until you have seen this one.
The one cost of buying a car that neither a lender nor a dealer sets, so it is the one this page will estimate: it follows the State's schedule and rises with the price. On a dealer sale it sits inside the drive-away figure; on a private sale it is paid at the licensing centre. Insurance, dealer add-ons and GAP cover are priced by the insurer and the dealer, so they are not numbers here. The section below on the finance desk says what to do about them.
A guide only, worked out from the rate you chose above. Yes Loans is a finance broker and does not set interest rates. Your broker will confirm the rate, the fees and the term in writing, from the lender, before you commit to anything.
Most people buy the car and then find the money, which is the order every dealership is built around. Reverse it and the same purchase gets simpler at every step. Four stages, and the trap that sits inside each one.
A pre-approval is a lender's conditional yes on an amount, given before you have chosen a car.
It costs nothing, it does not touch your credit score at the assessment stage, and it turns you into a cash buyer for the purposes of the next conversation. Most hold for somewhere between thirty and ninety days, which is longer than most people take to find a car.
Walking in without one. The business manager's first question is what you can afford a week, and the honest answer to that question is the one thing you should already know before anybody at a dealership asks it.
Ask for the drive-away price in writing before finance is mentioned by anybody.
With the money already arranged, the only number on the table is the price of the car, and it is a much simpler negotiation. A repayment can be made to look like anything by stretching the term or leaving a balloon at the end. A drive-away price cannot.
Being asked what you want to pay a week. It is a kind question and it is how a price goes up: agree a weekly figure and the term, the balloon and the add-ons get arranged around it until it fits.
A secured loan means the lender is buying into the car too, so it looks at it before it pays.
A PPSR search for money still owing on it, a check of the price against what the car is worth, its age against the end of the term, and comprehensive insurance in place from the day you drive it. On a private sale the lender also confirms who it is paying and that they own the car.
A car that fails one of those checks after you have paid a deposit to the seller. Make any private-sale deposit conditional on finance and on the PPSR coming back clear, in writing, in the same message.
The money never passes through your account. It goes from the lender to the seller.
The car becomes yours to drive and the lender's to hold an interest in. From settlement the repayment is fixed for the term on almost every car loan a lender writes. That is the point of it, and it is also why selling or trading in two years early means asking for a payout figure rather than simply stopping.
Treating a fixed term as free to leave. Most lenders will let you pay out early and most charge something for doing it inside the first year or two. Ask what, before you sign, because the answer differs by lender and it is one of the things the panel is for.
Only the first stage is in your hands entirely, and it is the one that changes the other three. A pre-approval takes a ten minute form and a day. Everything after it goes better for having done it.
These are the situations a dealership's finance desk tends to answer with a higher rate or a smaller car. A panel answers them with a different lender. Every answer below has a condition attached, because the honest ones do.
Common, and it is called negative equity when the payout on the old loan is more than the trade-in is worth. Some lenders will let the shortfall be added to the new loan and some will not, and the ones that will still want the new car to carry it. Bring the payout figure with you, because the first thing your broker does is check whether the gap is one a lender on the panel will absorb.
Lenders differ more here than on almost anything else. Several want the visa to run past the end of the loan term, some accept a shorter one with a larger deposit, and a few will not look at it at all. None of that is visible from outside, which is the whole case for one application to the right lender rather than three to the wrong ones.
A thin file is not a bad file, and there are two honest ways to help it: a deposit, which lowers what the lender has at risk in the car, or a guarantor, which puts a second person's file behind the loan. A guarantor is a real liability for the person giving it, and a broker will say so plainly before anybody signs.
Then the first question is not the rate but the structure. Mostly private use is a consumer car loan on this page; mostly business use is a chattel mortgage and belongs on that one, with the tax treatment to match. Lenders will assess an ABN under two years old on bank statements rather than full returns, and a deposit widens the panel considerably.
Ordinary in Western Australia and handled badly by a lot of online lenders, who read the base rate and miss the roster. A lender who understands site allowances and swing rosters will assess the whole income, which on a FIFO file is regularly the difference between a decline and an approval on the same car.
Yes, and increasingly common because the eastern states have more stock. The lender still runs its checks on the car and still pays the seller directly; what changes is that transport and the transfer onto Western Australian plates land on you, and a lender will want to see the car licensed here. Your broker has settled with sellers in every state and will tell you what the timing looks like.
The moment the car is agreed is the moment you are most agreeable, and the business manager's job starts there. Four things routinely get added to a contract in that half hour, and every one of them is financed at the loan's rate for the loan's full term.

Often a third-party product rather than the manufacturer's, with conditions worth reading in daylight. Whether it is worth having is a fair question. Whether it should be financed over five years at a car loan rate is a separate one, and it is the one that never gets asked at the desk.
The highest margin lines in the building, sold as a bundle and applied before you collect the car. If you want them, you can buy them. What you should not do is discover them as a line inside the amount financed after you have negotiated the drive-away price down.
Different products, one of which is worth understanding. GAP shortfall cover pays the difference between what your insurer pays out on a written-off car and what you still owe on it, and in the first year or two of a loan with little deposit that gap is real. Buy it on purpose, priced on its own, rather than as a line on a contract.
Sometimes it is genuine, because a manufacturer is subsidising the money that month. Often it is the same loan with a longer term or a balloon at the end, which lowers the weekly figure and raises the total. The estimator on this page shows both numbers side by side so the difference is not a matter of trust.
It is the single most useful sentence on this page. Once the price of the car is fixed, everything the desk adds afterwards is visible as an addition, and you can say no to each one on its own. With finance already arranged through your broker, you can also simply hand over the payment details and leave.
263 Albany Hwy, Victoria Park
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A car loan goes to one lender, once, and the whole outcome rides on which one. These are the people who make that call. Every rating below is that broker's own Google rating, as published on the Yes Loans about page.











263 Albany Highway, Victoria Park. The dealerships start a few hundred metres either side of the front door, which is a fair picture of what a pre-approval is for: the number gets sorted at one end of the road before you walk into the other.
Most Perth car buying happens on a Saturday morning and most finance desks know it. A pre-approval arranged on Thursday means the Saturday conversation is about the car, and the drive-away price you agree is one you can act on the same day rather than one that expires while somebody else's application is pending.
In Western Australia a car changes hands with vehicle licence duty, the licence fee, plates and compulsory third party insurance all due at once. On a dealer sale they sit inside the drive-away price. On a private sale they are yours to pay at the licensing centre, and a loan can include them if you say so at the start rather than the end.
A Perth car does Perth kilometres: the run down to Bunbury, the swing out to site, the school holidays north. A lender reads the car's age against the end of the term, and a car that will be worked hard is worth financing over a term that ends while it is still worth something. Your broker will put both numbers in front of you.
The person reading your file is in the same time zone as you and drives past the same yards on the way to work. That is not a marketing line. It is the reason the pre-approval comes back the same day. Call (08) 9472 3000 or get your free assessment online.
Your broker works with you to understand your individual, family, or business needs, alongside your actual budget. We're not a bank. We're an auto loan broker who matches you with vehicle finance across our lender panel, rather than pushing whatever product happens to be sitting on the shelf. Petrol, maintenance, licensing, insurance: your broker factors all of it in when working out what you can comfortably afford. Not just the sticker price of the car.
Competitive means compared. A rate is only sharp against the other rates the same file could have got, and the only way to know that is to put the application in front of more than one lender. That is what the panel is for and it is why no rate is printed on this page: the lender sets it, per application, and we would rather show you the real one than promise an average.
Most car loans in Australia are secured, meaning the vehicle backs the loan, but we can help with both depending on your needs. Secured usually means a lower rate, since the lender's risk drops when the car itself stands behind the money. Unsecured sits higher and suits the buyer who wants to sell early without a payout letter, or a car a lender will not take as security. The range of structures is set out on its own page: View Car Loans.
This is the hub of the car silo and the specialised questions each have a home. A used car's age against the end of the term, and the paperwork of a private sale or an auction, live on the used car loans page. A credit file with history on it, and what each application does to it, is the bad credit car loans page. Whether a demo car is financed as new or used has its own answer. If you are comparing offers already in hand, best car financing is the page that explains why the rate you were quoted is not always the rate you get.
You'll need your ABN details and, if you're GST registered, that too. Business car finance is often structured as a chattel mortgage, which comes with tax benefits worth running past your broker or accountant. Whether you need an SUV for family use and business client meetings, or a fleet of work utes, we structure vehicle finance through the business entity itself to help keep costs on the right side of your books. View Chattel Mortgage for the structure, or Get a Business Quote and a broker will tell you which side of the line the car sits on.


Call 1800 976 225 or apply online and chat to one of our car finance brokers today.
Bring the car you have found, or nothing at all. A pre-approval before the yard, a drive-away price agreed as a cash buyer and a lender that has already read your file is the whole method, and it starts with a ten minute form or a call to (08) 9472 3000.

How a car loan works, what lenders look at, what you need to apply, and whether to use a broker or go direct to a lender.

Discover which option offers better value, flexibility and ownership and find the right car finance solution with Yes Loans.

Refinancing your car loan can be a great way to reduce your repayments, access lower interest rates and enjoy better loan features.
Both. For personal use we arrange secured and unsecured car loans for new and used cars, with most applications reviewed within 24 hours. For business use you finance through the business entity itself, usually as a chattel mortgage, which can help keep those costs on the right side of your books. The structure is the first thing to settle, because it decides which lenders and which contract apply.
Arrange your own first, then let the dealer try to beat it. The finance desk at a dealership is offering the products it is set up to write, and it is paid on them; a broker submits your file to whichever lender on a named panel suits it. A genuine manufacturer-subsidised rate on a new car can be worth taking, so bring it to your broker and compare the total cost rather than the weekly figure.
Sometimes, when a manufacturer is buying the rate down in a national campaign. Check three things: whether the offer sits on the full retail price rather than the price you would have negotiated, whether the term is shorter than you wanted, and whether there is a balloon at the end. A low rate on a higher price over a shorter term can cost more each week than an ordinary loan on the price you would have paid as a cash buyer.
Not always. Some lenders will finance 100% of the purchase price with no deposit. Whether you need one comes down to the lender's policy, your income, your credit history and the car's value against the loan. A deposit generally improves your approval chances and lowers your repayments, and on a thin credit file or an older car it can be the thing that widens the panel, but it is not always required.
A balloon, or residual, is a lump sum left owing at the end of the term, so the regular repayments only cover the rest. It lowers the weekly figure and raises the total interest, because the balloon is charged interest for the whole term. It can suit somebody who changes cars every few years and will trade in against it. It suits nobody who has not planned for the lump sum. The estimator on this page lets you move it from nothing to forty percent and shows both effects.
There isn't an official minimum. Every lender sets its own criteria, and we work with clients across a range of credit histories to find one that fits. What matters more than the score is how many enquiries are already on the file, which is why one application through a broker beats three direct ones. More here: bad credit car loans.
The interest rate is what you're charged on the amount borrowed. The comparison rate rolls in most standard fees as well, so it's a truer read on total cost. When you're comparing two loans, that's the figure to trust, and it is the figure a lender is obliged to show beside any advertised rate. Learn Comparison Rate at Moneysmart, and bring both numbers from any offer you have to your broker.
Fixed keeps your repayments the same for the whole term, which makes budgeting simpler, and it is what almost every secured car loan is written as. Variable can move with the market, up or down. The question worth asking about a fixed loan is not the rate but what it costs to leave early, because that is where fixed loans differ most from one lender to the next.
In most cases, yes. Rules vary lender to lender, but the majority don't charge a penalty for paying out early, and several charge something inside the first year or two. Ask before you sign rather than after; your broker will raise it anyway because it is one of the things that decides which lender the file goes to. Paying out early also means asking for a payout figure, which is the balance plus interest to the day, not the sum of the remaining repayments.
You ask the lender for a payout figure and the sale clears it. On a trade-in the dealer usually handles that directly and pays out the old loan from the new deal. If the car is worth less than the payout, the difference has to come from somewhere: your savings, or in some cases the new loan, which is called negative equity and is worth avoiding by not over-financing in the first place.
No. We run a soft check that doesn't touch your credit file while we work out which lender suits you. Going through a broker instead of applying around yourself can actually help protect your score, because the lender only sees one application when the file is ready rather than several half-finished ones.
Most hold for somewhere between thirty and ninety days depending on the lender, and it commits you to nothing. It is a conditional yes on an amount, subject to the car you eventually choose passing the lender's checks. If you take longer to find the car, it is usually refreshed on updated documents rather than started from scratch.
Plenty, provided you meet the lender's criteria. The first question is whether the car is mostly private or mostly business use, because that decides whether it is a consumer car loan on this page or a chattel mortgage. Several lenders will assess an ABN under two years old on bank statements rather than full tax returns, and there is a longer guide to car loan options for self-employed people if you want the detail.
Yes to both. The lender runs the same checks it would on a dealer car - a PPSR search for money owing, the price against value, the age against the term - and pays the seller directly once they clear. Interstate, the transport and the transfer onto Western Australian plates are yours to organise, and a lender will want to see the car licensed here. Make any deposit to a private seller conditional on finance and the PPSR result, in writing.
Usually, up to the lender's limit on how much more than the car's value it will lend. Whether they should is a separate question. On-road costs and the first year of comprehensive insurance are genuine costs of the purchase and it is reasonable to plan for them. Dealer add-ons financed over five years are the ones to look at twice, which is what the section on this page about the finance desk is for.
Different products for different situations. A novated lease runs through your employer and salary, so it only exists if your employer offers it, and it suits some salaried buyers of newer cars. A car loan is yours regardless of who you work for and the car is yours at the end without a residual to settle. The blog has a full comparison of a car loan against a lease, and your broker will tell you honestly if the lease is the better fit.
It comes down to your income, your existing commitments, your credit history and the car itself, rather than to a figure on a page. The quickest sanity check is our loan calculator, and there is a longer answer on how much you could borrow if you want the reasoning. Then let the pre-approval put a real number on it before you shop.
Yes, and it is worth looking at when your credit file has improved since the loan was written, when the loan was arranged at a dealership under time pressure, or when the repayments no longer fit. The new lender pays out the old one and the car becomes security for the new loan. Read our guide to car loan refinancing before you decide, because a payout fee on the old loan can eat the saving.
We act fast. We've had car loan approvals come through within an hour of a completed application, though that depends on the lender and how complete your paperwork is going in. Photo identification, recent payslips or income statements, bank statements from the last few months and proof of your current address is the usual list. The slow part is almost never the lender; it is waiting on a document.